CULTURE & HERITAGE
Saudi by train: A guide to the country's railways, past and present
Travelling by train always prompts the most romantic of images and in Saudi it's no different. Here's how to see the country by rail...
Words by Sheila Russell
The famous Hejaz Railway was built for two reasons. Firstly it reduced the time for pilgrims to travel from Damascus to the holy city of Madinah from 40 days to 3-4 days. Previously the journey by camel was not only long but dangerous with many pilgrims dying along the way. In addition the railway was an important military feature of the Ottoman empire transporting troops and material, providing easy and quick access to their garrisons in the region.
Work on the narrow-gauge (1,050mm) railway started in 1900, and was amazingly completed in 1908 when the line reached Madinah. The plan was for it to eventually extend to Mecca but the outbreak of World War I in 1914 put an end to that.
The railway had stations and accommodation for troops (commonly known as block houses) every 20km so that trains could fill up on fuel and water to make the important steam that propelled the engines, along with housing soldiers whose job it was to guard that section of track. Even though the tracks have been removed you can still see the stations and block houses along the route today. Few trains remain today but one can be seen at the Hejaz Railway Station of Al Buwayr, on the road between Madinah and AlUla. An engine and seven carriages can easily be viewed behind the protective fence.
During the First World War the railway came under attack from local tribes and famously by members of the Arab Revolt with many guided by British Officer T E Lawrence. People around the world are very familiar with this image as it was notably portrayed in the famous 1962 Hollywood film Lawrence of Arabia. The most notable stations are found in Tabuk, Hegra (AlUla) and Madinah. Tabuk station was considered one of the main stations of the railway and is the third largest in terms of area. The station contains about 13 buildings that were built to provide comfort for the traveling pilgrims, including a hospital, a rest house, and a quarantine station. It is now a museum where visitors can learn all about the railway.
Situated near Hegra (Saudi’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site), another large station provided a rest area for passengers along with numerous workshops and maintenance areas for the trains. A new luxury hotel The Chedi Hegra is due to open on the site by the end of 2023 incorporating several existing structures including Hejaz railway buildings and an 18th century fort. The Madinah railway station was built less than a kilometre from the Prophet’s Mosque, the second most holy place for Muslims and is one of the largest on the Hejaz railway. The station is an impressive building with 17 large decorative arches and is now a museum showcasing a large number of historical artifacts from the area.
The present
Today modern journeys by train are very different. In the west the Haramain Highspeed Railway (HHR) propels guests between the holy cities of Mecca and Madinah with 2 stops in Jeddah (Al Sulimaniyah in the city and King Abdulaziz International Airport), along with King Abdullah Economic City (KAEC, pronounced cake), north of Jeddah. The service is fast, up to 300 km/h and efficient with fares ranging from 40 to 315 SAR. Each passenger can take one piece of luggage weighing no more than 25kg and no bigger than 65x55x35cm, along with one small piece of hand luggage such as a backpack, camera bag or purse. Bookings can be made here.
From Riyadh there are numerous trips awaiting those who love travelling by train. The North Train Passenger Line goes through Majmaah, Qassim, Hail, Jouf and finally to Qurayyat. Qassim has many historic locations and is home to the largest date festival in the world, The Buraidah Date festival. An ancient city that has seen pilgrims and visitors for thousands of years, Hail is a beautiful region with forts and UNESCO status rock art dating back over 7,000 years.
Travelling east and coast bound, another option is to head for Dammam. Two and a half hour into the journey the train gets to Hofuf, a city that sits in Al Ahsa, the largest oasis in the world and another UNESCO World Heritage Site. The terminus of this train journey is in Dammam, where you can enjoy the sea air of the Gulf, traditional souks and the world-renowned King Abdulaziz Centre for World Culture (Ithra). Booking any of these tickets is done through Saudi Arabia Railways. Whichever train journey you take, you will be surrounded by an ever-changing landscapes and destinations that provide such a vast array of heritage and culture, you won’t know which to visit first.
Practical information
Visas
It’s surprisingly simple and easy to get an e-Visa for Saudi and the process is very similar to applying for an ESTA for the USA. Over 50 nationalities are eligible to apply for an e-Visa, including people from the UK and USA, with it costing (at the time of writing) 535 Saudi riyals (about £115 or US$143). Applications are swift and nearly all applicants will receive a response within three working days – most within 24 hours. To apply for your Saudi e-Visa, visit the official Saudi Tourism Authority website. If you’re from the USA, UK or the Schengen Area, you can also apply for a visa on arrival into Saudi. It’s slightly cheaper than an e-Visa, too, at SAR480 (about £102 or US$128).
Getting there & around
Local customs
To really embrace Saudi life and pay respect towards its traditions, there are a few local customs you should abide when travelling around the country. Both men and women should wear clothing that covers their elbows and below their knees when out in public. If you’re heading to the coast, it’s still expected you dress modestly. When meeting and greeting locals, whether it’s a market stallholder or a private guide, say hello with ‘salam alaykum’, which means ‘peace be upon you’, as well as offering a handshake.
Weather
You might think it’s hot all year round in Saudi but it’s a little more nuanced than that. The best time to visit Riyadh is between October and March, when temperatures can dip as low as 20°C during the daytime and rarely exceed 30°C. Summer months in Riyadh can get extremely hot, with temperatures often above 40°C between June and September.
Is English spoken in Saudi?
Arabic is the official national language but English is widely spoken.
What is the currency of Saudi?
The currency of Saudi is the riyal, with the current rate (at the time of writing), around SAR4.76 to the UK£. You’ll need to pre-order money before you travel, as in the UK it’s not usually stocked in currency exchange booths.
What’s it like travelling in Saudi as a female?
We think you’d be surprised! To find out more, read our first-hand account on what it’s like to travel in Saudi.
What’s the time difference in Saudi?
Saudi follows Arabia Standard Time (GMT +3) all year round.
